Founded by Rei Kawakubo in 1969, Comme des Garçons (French for “Like Boys”) has been a vanguard of fashion, constantly challenging norms and reshaping how we understand the relationship between clothing, the body, and identity. With radical designs that disrupt conventions, the brand https://comme-des-cargons.shop/ is widely regarded as one of the most revolutionary forces in contemporary fashion. Through bold silhouettes, unconventional materials, and conceptual themes, Kawakubo has forged a distinctive aesthetic that defies categorization. This article delves into the key moments and philosophies behind the revolutionary designs of Comme des Garçons.
Breaking Gender Norms with Androgyny
From the very beginning, Comme des Garçons has rejected the traditional binaries of fashion, particularly concerning gender. While many designers aimed to accentuate femininity through their clothing, Rei Kawakubo chose a different route, embracing androgyny. Her early collections blurred the line between menswear and womenswear, opting for oversized, boxy cuts that obscured the body’s form. By doing so, Kawakubo invited wearers to reconsider the rigid confines of gender identity. This emphasis on androgyny set the stage for what would become a hallmark of the brand: the rejection of societal norms and expectations.
The brand’s Spring/Summer 1984 collection, often referred to as “Destroy,” exemplified this philosophy. Featuring tattered, asymmetrical garments, Kawakubo presented clothing as armor, offering protection from the male gaze while simultaneously defying gender-specific expectations. These designs were not about beauty in the conventional sense but rather about empowerment through ambiguity.
The Deconstruction of Fashion:
Perhaps one of the most revolutionary aspects of Comme des Garçons’ design philosophy is its embrace of deconstructionism. Inspired by the literary and philosophical theories of the 20th century, Kawakubo approached fashion as something to be deconstructed and then rebuilt in a way that questioned the very essence of clothing. This was most evident in her use of unconventional construction techniques, such as visible seams, frayed edges, and asymmetrical silhouettes.
The Fall/Winter 1997 “Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body” collection is a perfect example of this approach. In this show, Kawakubo challenged the notion of what a garment should look like on the human form. By creating dresses with large, bulbous protrusions in odd places like the hips and shoulders, she distorted the body’s natural shape. These pieces, which came to be known as “lumps and bumps,” turned traditional notions of fit and silhouette upside down. This deconstructive approach to fashion redefined the relationship between clothing and the body.
Rebellious Use of Materials:
Comme des Garçons is also known for its innovative use of materials. From industrial fabrics to unconventional textures like plastic, felt, and vinyl, Kawakubo’s designs often employ unexpected textiles that challenge the notion of luxury in fashion. Instead of relying on fine silks or expensive wool, she prioritizes concept over material. This rebellious attitude towards fabric selection is in keeping with the brand’s broader theme of subversion.
One notable collection in this regard was the Fall/Winter 2012 show, where Kawakubo presented sculptural outfits made from fabric that resembled black garbage bags. The use of such an unexpected material in a high-fashion context prompted a reconsideration of value and luxury, pushing audiences to think beyond the confines of traditional haute couture fabrics.
Nonconformist Silhouettes:
Comme des Garçons has long been associated with nonconformist silhouettes that defy conventional notions of beauty and wearability. Whereas mainstream fashion often seeks to flatter the body, Kawakubo’s designs frequently work against it, offering shapes that obscure, distort, or even clash with the human form. This radical departure from conventional tailoring is one of the key reasons why Comme des Garçons has consistently been positioned at the avant-garde of fashion.
Her Spring/Summer 2017 collection, titled “Invisible Clothes,” showcased exaggerated, bulbous shapes that engulfed the wearer, rendering the body almost irrelevant beneath the fabric. These designs, which were more sculptural than wearable, demonstrated Kawakubo’s ongoing commitment to exploring the limits of clothing as an art form. Her work often raises questions about what fashion is supposed to do: Is it meant to beautify? To function? Or to make a statement? Kawakubo’s work suggests that fashion can do all of these things—or none of them at all.
Aesthetic of Imperfection:
Another key feature of Comme des Garçons’ revolutionary designs is its embrace of imperfection. Rather than adhering to the clean lines and polished finishes typical of high fashion, Kawakubo often incorporates flaws—such as raw edges, fraying fabric, or uneven hemlines—into her designs. This rejection of perfection speaks to a deeper philosophical stance: that beauty can be found in the imperfect, the incomplete, and the unfinished.
This aesthetic reached its apex in collections like the Fall/Winter 2009 show, where garments were pieced together in a patchwork of different materials and patterns. This “rough around the edges” look wasn’t accidental—it was a calculated challenge to the industry’s obsession with flawlessness. In a world where fashion often seeks perfection, Kawakubo celebrates the beauty of imperfection.
Conceptual Fashion Shows:
Beyond the garments themselves, Comme des Garçons’ runway presentations have long been a site for revolutionary thinking. Kawakubo’s shows are not just about showcasing clothes—they are performance art, designed to provoke thought and emotion. The stark, often minimalistic settings, coupled with haunting soundtracks, create an immersive experience that reflects the conceptual depth of the clothing.
Her Spring/Summer 2015 collection was particularly memorable in this regard. Models wore dresses that resembled abstract sculptures, and the runway was transformed into a surreal, almost dystopian landscape. Kawakubo’s shows transcend the boundaries of fashion, becoming art installations that encourage viewers to reflect on the deeper meaning behind the clothing.
The Art of Subversion:
One of the most enduring aspects of Comme des Garçons is its subversive approach to fashion. Kawakubo has consistently challenged the status quo, refusing to adhere to trends or follow conventional beauty standards. This subversiveness is perhaps best captured in her frequent rejection of color. In the 1980s, when bright, bold colors were in vogue, Kawakubo presented collections dominated by black—an act of rebellion that cemented the brand’s reputation as a disruptor.
In her Fall/Winter 2018 collection, she continued this legacy of subversion by creating clothes that were deliberately unwearable. Jackets were oversized to the point of absurdity, and pants were so wide they could barely be worn. In doing so, Kawakubo challenged the very notion of functionality in fashion, asking her audience to question what clothing is really for.
Collaborations and Cultural Impact:
Comme des Garçons’ revolutionary designs have not been confined to the runway. The brand’s numerous collaborations with other designers, artists, and brands have allowed it to reach a wider audience while maintaining its avant-garde ethos. Notable collaborations include partnerships with Nike, Supreme, and even Louis Vuitton. These collaborations have further cemented the brand’s influence in both high fashion and streetwear culture.
Moreover, Comme des Garçons has had a profound impact on younger designers, many of whom cite Kawakubo as a major influence. Her willingness to challenge norms and push boundaries has inspired a generation of creatives who see fashion as a form of artistic expression rather than mere clothing.
Conclusion:
The revolutionary designs of Comme des Garçons have fundamentally altered the landscape of fashion. Rei Kawakubo’s fearless experimentation with form, fabric, and function has redefined what clothing can be. By challenging the norms of beauty, gender, and wearability, she has expanded the possibilities of fashion as an art form. Today, Comme des Garçons remains at the forefront of avant-garde fashion, continuing to push boundaries and provoke thought. In an industry often driven by trends and commercialism, Kawakubo’s unwavering commitment to creativity and conceptualism ensures that Comme des Garçons will remain an enduring symbol of revolutionary design.
